Natural Products Insider

MAY-JUN 2018

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50 INSIDER May/June 2018 When asking people how they are doing, a typical response is "Ugh, I'm so busy!" The notion of constantly being busy has become a symbol of high status in American culture; however, this on-the-go lifestyle also means skin is constantly and consistently being exposed to oxidative environmental stressors, such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, natural ionizing radiation, pollutants and chemicals. This exposure can contribute to signs of premature skin aging, such as pigment stains and wrinkles. However, using antioxidants to combat such damage is becoming an increasingly sound strategy for supporting skin health. "More consumers are interested in products with premium ingredients backed by research to care for their skin both topically and from the inside out," said Sébastien Bornet, vice president of global sales and marketing at Horphag Research. Topically Applied Antioxidants Traditionally, the delivery format for beauty products is via direct application to the skin, as evidenced by the countless creams, moisturizers, serums, etc., on store shelves. It is also an easy and known application to consumers, as various media outlets show commercials of people rubbing concoctions directly onto their faces and bodies. Shaheen Majeed, worldwide president, Sabinsa, said popular formats include creams, foundations, facial moisturizers and lip products. However, a limitation to topical formulations is "antioxidants break down when exposed to light and air, so it's important to make sure the products are packaged in opaque and airtight, or air-restrictive containers," said Mal Evans, Ph.D., scientifi c director, KGK Science. She also suggested avoiding jar packaging to prevent ingredients from losing effectiveness once opened. "New delivery formats such as nanocarriers are also being considered to avoid or reduce photodegradation, as well as improve percutaneous penetration," Majeed said. Topical application of coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) was shown to prevent photoaging by penetrating viable layers of the epidermis and reducing the level of oxidation measured by weak photon emission, as well as reducing wrinkle depth. 1 CoQ10 also showed protective effects against cell death (apoptosis) induced by several reactive oxygen species (ROS) in keratinocytes—epidermal cells that produce keratin—but only when its cellular absorption was enhanced by pretreatment of the cells with highly CoQ10-loaded serum. 2 Therefore, CoQ10 showed effi cacy to prevent some effects of photoaging. "Resveratrol is a potent polyphenolic antioxidant found in red grapes, red wine, nuts and fruits such as blueberries and cranberries, with emerging research showing it can act as a potent antioxidant for the skin," Evans said. According to research, it functions as a dual antioxidant that can neutralize free radicals and increase intrinsic antioxidant capacity. 3 A topically applied proprietary blend (as Resveratrol B E, an antioxidant night concentrate fi nished product, by SkinCeuticals) containing 1 percent resveratrol, 0.5 percent baicalin and 1 percent vitamin E showed signifi cant improvement in fi ne lines and wrinkles, skin fi rmness, skin elasticity, skin laxity, hyperpigmentation, radiance and skin roughness over baseline after 12 weeks. 3 Evans concurred that when applied topically, resveratrol helps protect the skin's surface, 4 and rebuff negative environmental infl uences, 5 making it a valuable ingredient for skin rejuvenation. "Vitamins are considered to be both 'antioxidants' as well as 'skin friendly,'" said Golan Raz, head of the global health division at Lycored. "Vitamin A supports skin cell production and growth; 6 vitamin C plays a role in collagen synthesis; 7 and vitamin E decreases free radicals, slowing the aging process of the skin." 8 In a randomized, double-blind, vehicle- controlled, left and right arm comparison study of 36 elderly subjects with a mean age of 87 years and residing in two senior facilities, topically applied vitamin A improved fi ne wrinkles associated with natural aging. 9 A topical 0.4 percent vitamin A lotion or its vehicle was applied to either arm, up to three times per week for 24 weeks. Using a scale of 0=none to 9=most severe, along with biochemical measurements from skin biopsy specimens obtained from treated areas, there were signifi cant differences between vitamin A-treated and vehicle-treated skin for changes in fi ne wrinkling scores. Ingestible Skin Health Products Currently trending in the skin health segment is ingestible skin care, beauty from within and the inside-out approach, all of which point to the consumption of certain ingredients with the promise of helping the skin become healthy or healthier from inside the body. Ingestible Beauty: Antioxidants for Skin Health Novel delivery formats such as nanocarriers are being incorporated to help reduce or avoid photodegradation in topically applied antioxidants. Ingestible skin care may include antioxidants to aid skin health in applications such as gummies, powders, liquid shots and functional foods. Many consumers seek premium ingredients backed by verifiable research to care for the health of their skin. Antioxidants Reign Supreme for Skin Health by Ginger Schlueter INSIDER's Take Currently trending in the skin health segment is ingestible skin care, beauty from within and the inside-out approach, all of which point to the c onsumption of certain ingredients with the promise of helping the skin become healthy or healthier from inside the body.

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