Natural Products Insider

MAY-JUN 2018

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52 INSIDER May/June 2018 applications include supplements, such as tablets and gummies; powders; liquid shots; beverages; and functional foods, such as bar s. "There are two main groups of molecules involved, one which is oil-soluble and the other which is water-soluble," Raz explained, speaking about ingesting antioxidant ingredients. "For the oil-soluble group, the most common delivery system is softgel capsules; for the water-soluble group, tablets and two-piece capsules are common." The following antioxidants, scientifi cally shown to assist with skin health, are being used in an increasing number of ingestible skin health applications. Glutathione, a tripeptide made of three amino acids—cysteine, glutamic acid and glycine—acts as an antioxidant, free radical scavenger and a detoxifying agent. 10 "This antioxidant is popular in the United States for immune health protection as well as in Southeast Asia as a skin- whitening agent, although new research is being conducted on skin health," said Elyse Lovett, marketing manager, Kyowa Hakko USA Inc. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled, parallel, three-arm study, healthy female subjects were equally randomized into three groups and took glutathione (as Setria ® Glutathione from Kyowa Hakko) or placebo orally for 12 weeks. 11 Melanin index, wrinkles and other relevant biophysical properties were measured and blood samples were taken for safety monitoring. The study concluded melanin index and UV spots of face and arm tended to be lower in the glutathione group compared to placebo, and a tendency toward increased skin elasticity was observed in those taking glutathione. Yusuke Sauchi, senior manager of global sales and marketing, KOHJIN Life Sciences, spoke to the various applications of glutathione, identifying supplements, beverages, food and cosmetic products. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is another ingestible antioxidant and is made from bio-fermented lactic acid bacteria. In a 12-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled study, 120 mg/d of HA (as Hyabest ® (S) LF-P, from Kewpie Corp.) or placebo was orally administered to a group of 60 Japanese male and female subjects ages 22 to 59 who had crow's feet. 12 Skin luster and suppleness signifi cantly improved with HA consumpt ion. "The absorbed low molecular weight of orally taken hyaluronic acid is lowered, broken down and absorbed inside the human body," explained Keiko Kuriyama, marketing, and Yuji Sato, sales, fi ne chemical division, Kewpie Corp. "It increases fi broblasts and promotes synthesis, suppressing and inhibiting skin photoaging, as a potential possibility." 13 Delivery formats include powder, capsules, tablets, beverages and gummies, according to the Kewpie team. Lycopene, the red pigment from tomatoes, helps protect skin from UV exposure, Raz said. He referred to a placebo-controlled, double-blind, randomized, crossover study of 65 healthy volunteers who were allocated into four treatment groups and subjected to two weeks of washout. 14 Participants started with active treatment with either lycopene (as Lycored Nutrient Complex™) or lutein, and were switched to placebo or vice versa. Blood samples were taken during washout and treatment phases for assessment of carotenoids, such as lycopene. The study concluded, "lycopene from tomatoes together with phytoene and phytofl uence [two other carotenoids found in tomatoes] can protect the skin from UV damage," Raz said. Delivery methods of lycopene range from functional beverages to foods such as bars and cereals. Though not a direct antioxidant, methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) is recognized for supporting the structural integrity of the skin. Sulfur from MSM is necessary for disulfi de bonds and proper cross-linking of collagen, explained Tim Hammond, vice president of sales and marketing, Bergstrom Nutrition. This was recently shown in a published study of juvenile male mice consuming MSM (as OptiMSM ® , from Bergstrom Nutrition) daily for eight days, confi rming the presence of sulfur in vivo as absorbed by the small intestine, and the MSM incorporating into proteins. 15 "Use of MSM topically and orally provides the synergistic effect of continuous support from the outside and bolsters internal processes leading to long-term benefi ts," Hammond said. Bornet said French maritime pine bark extract (as Pycnogenol ® , from Horphag Research) has been shown to increase the skin's hydration and improve elasticity. Twenty healthy, postmenopausal women were supplemented with Pycnogenol for 12 weeks. 16 Before, during and after supplementation, the women's skin condition was assessed using biophysical methods, such as ultrasound and visioscan analyses, as well as biopsy. Tolerated well in all volunteers, researchers concluded Pycnogenol signifi cantly improved hydration and elasticity of the women's skin. Carotenoids, such as dietary beta- carotene, are used for improvement of facial wrinkles and elasticity, Evans noted. Consider the fi ndings from a randomized study of 30 healthy female subjects over age 50 who received two different doses, 30 and 90 mg/d of beta-carotene, for 90 days. 17 Baseline and complexion of each participant, facial wrinkles and elasticity were measured objectively. The study concluded 30 mg/d of beta-carotene supplementation prevented and repaired photoaging. Ellagic acid, a naturally occurring polyphenol in pomegranate (Punica granatum), is yet another antioxidant demonstrating skin care benefi ts, Majeed said. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled, in vivo study, female subjects ages 20 to 40 were divided and randomly assigned to three groups: high dose (200 mg/d of ellagic acid), low dose (100 mg/d of ellagic acid) and control (placebo). 18 Each group received test foods for a duration of four weeks. The study results concluded ellagic acid protected the skin against UV irradiation-induced pigmentation, and improved the "brightness of the face" and "stains and freckles." Most consumers are familiar with antioxidants in topical forms such as creams, lotions and serums, as well as taking supplements in the form of capsules, tablets and more. However, for brands to get a strong foothold in the ever-changing beauty market, embracing ingestible beauty with new delivery forms—bars, cereals, beverages, powders, liquid shots, etc., is a must—along with "formulating with good solid ingredients backed by science," Lovett concluded. Beauty: Antioxidants for Skin Health For a list of references, email references@naturalproductsinsider.com

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